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The riches of Amat
are not very portable. They are the age old trees, forest
colours through the season, the rivers, the hills, the heather,
the garden and all the stirring memories of the Clan Chief
leading out his men in the Hannoverian cause, his lady hiding
the eldest son, a wounded Jacobite, under the floorboards.
And a family crest on the sifting room ceiling which directly
re-calls Robert the Bruce, saved from the English by hiding
him in a hay cart and forking the hay over his recumbent body.
There
is plenty of wildlife. Not so long ago the pine Martens nested
in the house. That was before Pepsina, star of Captain Corellis
Mandolin came on the bookstalls or I might have taken a different
attitude. How the hell do I rid myself of these rodents
behind the oak panelling
I hollered, knowing they are a protected species. Try
music opined the government agency man. I mean honestly,
what do I pay my taxes for?
Amat
is a community and always has been. There used to be a church
here, a trading store and a post office. In the 1940s
there was the Amat dance band and, 60 years on, the leader
Willy Macdonald, my crofting neighbour, still plays his fiddle
for local ceilidhs hows that for continuity?
Despite the drift away from the glen, there are still a dozen
houses lived in and several more let for holidays. The cowbyre
we have converted into a community hall. There are 7 bridges
over the water between here and the impressive Glencalvie
Falls, all but 2 privately built, which help us to get about
and provide wonderful walking.
I
spent formative years in Argyll. I remember the Sunderland
flying boats taking off from the bay at Oban festooned with
depth charges, presents for the U boats whose commanders called
them Porcupines. My personal contribution to the
war effort was limited to boosting morale by painting swastikas
on the loo paper. I love going back but consider myself fortunate
to live at Amat, the watershed hills to the South West ensure
we do not get so much rain yet enough, with its mix of peat
and sandy soil, to provide wonderful growing conditions for
shrubs.
The
greater the amount and diversity of ground cover, the wider
the range of wild flowers, birds, insects and beasties. In
themselves these provide huge enjoyment to visitors but also,
the ground cover helps the productivity of the river. Up to
50% of juvenile fish feed can come from the bank in the form
of insects and leaf mould leading to greater fish densities.
Did
you know that greater ground cover levels can save life? Man
has given himself global warming with increased weather volatility
in winter, thats official. A direct consequence is the
ever more prevalent propensity for rivers to flood. Just imagine
tarmacing and draining the whole glen and the subsequent ferocity
of spate water from a sudden thaw of winter snows.
The
way to minimise the danger is to increase the levels of ground
cover, especially on the steeper slopes. You then create a
gigantic sponge and a hydraulic regime ensuring river levels
rise slower, more consistently and never reach such destructive
heights. By increasing ground cover, restoring native pinewoods,
blocking up man made drainage channels we buy ourselves time
and safety.
We
also help the wild salmon and his predators the seals the
ospreys and other fish eating birds for, very fierce flow
levels, wash out the salmon breeding grounds destroying the
stocks.
We
have culled back the seals' predator in nature and protected
many species that feed on salmon. The very survival of wild
salmon and jobs on east coast Highland rivers may now depend
on disease spreading through overcrowded seal populations.
At Amat we work to stabilise the river boundary with trees
and let the vegetation levels increase wherever we can. The
right bank of the Carron was bought at the dawn of the 20th
century. Having both banks and so many bridges affords great
management flexibility to stabilise banks on the outside of
the bends where hydraulic forces are greatest whilst allowing
anglers to fish on the opposite side.
The
anglers are wonderful. They put back most of the fish caught
and are adept at carefully handling the spawners. I derive
considerable enjoyment in watching these fish cutting their
redds here in the Autumn. But we have had to reduce rod numbers
and fishing hours to help the dwindling stocks. The wild salmon
is now an endangered species.
All
in the Highlands need to speak up for a healthy sustainable
sport fishing industry, or jobs will be lost as anglers are
increasingly attracted away to places like Russia where sport
is nowadays accessible and rewarding. The message is clear,
one cannot fiddle about. To manage Nature, the plan must embrace
the complete food chain and a balance struck between exploitation
by predators on the one hand and spawning stock and in river
conditions on the other. The problems of minimising risks
to life and ensuring a healthy and sustainable sport fish
industry have much in common. Getting that message over is
a current fad of mine and I apologise for warbling on.
Im
often asked When was Amat house built?
Amat is a Norse word suggesting that the Vikings came here.
There will have been something which has metamorphosed with
time over a considerable period. The invention of the camera
revealed the Ross house to be a long low building with dormer
windows above the ground floor. In Edwardian times one end
was built up and a tower added by a diamond merchant from
South Africa. Then in the 1920s the increased height
was extended over the length of the house by the Conygham
family and I have added a plant house /conservatory on one
end to let us watch the river in comfort surrounded by tender
shrubs. I
remember a friend telling me that hed overheard a cross
dad upbraiding his son with the words When in Rome
young man I expect you to do as the Romainians do.
The natural charm of Amat seems to positively invite visitors
to respect the place and leave with a desire to come back
and find it as they remember it. I never find it necessary
to scold anyone and long may the natural beauty of the place
be its best attraction and security. |